In Bandung, a groundbreaking biotech company is redefining sustainability and innovation. Mycotech Lab, better known just as MYCL, transforms agroforestry waste into valuable mycelium materials, more commonly known as the roots of mushrooms, which are used in a wide range of products. These include shoes, wallets, jackets, wall tiles, countertops, tables, chairs, bricks, and various structural shapes or sculptures, serving both functional and aesthetic purposes.
MYCL’s journey began with five co-founders, initially starting with three architects, Renaldiaz Hartyanto, Adi Reza Nugroho and Robbi Zidna Ilman, whose frequent assignments to rural areas like Flores, Minahasa, Sumba, and Nias exposed them to the richness of Indonesia’s agricultural landscape. After a stint in Singapore, one of the founders returned to Jakarta and continued working on sustainable projects, including hydropower in Wae Rebo, Flores, and in farming communities around Bandung.
It was in Bandung where their first venture with mushrooms took root. They recognized the enormous potential of agribusiness in Indonesia and decided to explore what could be grown from agricultural waste. Their first venture, Growbox, was an educational kit for growing your own mushrooms, sparking their interest in mycology.
A pivotal moment came when they read Paul Stamets’ book “Mycelium Running”, in which the author claims that “mushrooms can save the world” by being versatile and useful beyond just food. This inspiration laid the foundation for MYCL. They soon brought on board Arkha Bentangan and Annisa Wibi, experts in biotechnology and business. This multidisciplinary team allowed MYCL to push the boundaries of what was possible with mycelium technology.
But the path from discovering the potential of mushrooms to developing innovative products was anything but smooth for the team at MYCL. It all began in 2015, when the founders started prototyping. One of the founders went to Seattle to immerse himself in the startup community, gaining valuable insights and knowledge. Upon his return to Jakarta, the team spent a gruelling year pitching their ideas to investors, facing around 50 rejections. Despite these setbacks, their determination remained unshaken.
Initially, the team’s background in architecture, shared by Adi, Aldi and Robbi, guided their experiments towards creating building materials. By the end of 2016, MYCL’s potential caught the attention of partners in Zurich, leading to a collaboration that lasted from 2017 to 2018. This was their first major project to create a structural pavilion made from MYCL composite, demonstrating its versatility which could be used for both structural and sculptural purposes.
This partnership marked a significant milestone, providing the resources needed to stabilise their funding. With this stability, MYCL could focus on standardising their production processes and conducting rigorous quality tests. Their efforts centred on three main aspects: quality standardisation, product standardisation, and market validation. This focus has driven their development efforts from late 2018 to the present.
The core concept of using mycelium came from observing tempeh, as the main products are made from soybeans bonded together by white mycelium. MYCL took this concept and applied it to a broader range of agricultural wastes, including residues from palm oil, sawdust, pineapple, and wood chips. These materials serve as nutrients for the mycelium mushrooms, which consume the waste and develop into fully colonised, bonded and solid materials.
This mycelium substrate production then undergoes a carefully calibrated incubation process designed to optimise mycelium metabolism. Once ready, the substrate can be transformed into Mylea, a leather-like fabric; Biobo, a material used for boards and tiles; and MYCL Composite, a biodegradable solid composite that can be moulded into any shape and utility.
Initially, MYCL’s focus was on their composite material, a project-based product that could be moulded into various shapes upon order. This versatile material can be transformed into tables, chairs, bricks, and more, takes about two weeks to produce, and through numerous iterations around 2017-2018, the team discovered that the composite could be used to create other materials.
So the journey continued beyond composites. The team at MYCL realised the potential of the mushroom’s leather-like surface, which led to the creation of Mylea. This material mimics the qualities of leather and is suitable for various fashion products such as wallets, shoes, keychains, bags, clothes, and jackets. What remains after extracting Mylea is hot-pressed to form Biobo, a durable material used for boards or tiles suitable for walls and kitchen countertops.
MYCL operates on a B2B (business-to-business) model for Biobo and MYCL Composite. Biobo differentiates itself from Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) by eliminating the use of glue, particularly formaldehyde, which is known to cause cancer. This makes Biobo a safer alternative, earning a Four-Star Non-Formaldehyde Materials Certification for completely avoiding these harmful substances.
MYCL composite remains a cornerstone of the company’s offerings due to its diverse applications. It can be used for both sculptural and structural purposes, providing excellent thermal insulation. Additionally, MYCL composite can be crafted into functional art pieces, showcasing the material’s adaptability upon request.
Mylea stands out from regular leather in several ways. It can be produced with less time, cost, and resources, and of course avoids the interaction with animals. While the durability seems to match that of conventional leather, MYCL continues to refine the product, acknowledging that it is a pioneering effort without the centuries of development behind traditional leather. The primary advantage of Mylea lies in its environmental and sustainability credentials, offering amore eco-friendly alternative.
With the introduction of Mylea in 2019, MYCL took an unexpected turn into the fashion industry. However, the transition was challenging, as the team had limited experience in the fashion sector. Despite being novices in the fashion landscape, MYCL embraced the challenge, joining the Textile and Fashion Federation Innovation Prize competition in 2021.
There, they delved into the intricacies of the fashion industry, learning about prototyping concepts and forging collaborations with established brands. The collaboration with Doublet, showcased at Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2022/2023, marked a significant milestone, propelling MYCL into the spotlight of the fashion world. Subsequent invitations to prestigious events, such as Melbourne Fashion Week in 2024, allowed MYCL to showcase Indonesian local brands collaborating with their lab, proudly exhibiting their innovative materials to a global audience.
Looking ahead, MYCL is focused on making their materials more affordable and accessible, aiming to avoid exclusivity and luxury branding. Their scale-up strategy involves decentralisation, with a focus on utilising local raw materials and residues. This approach not only promotes sustainability but also empowers local communities and farmers. MYCL’s vision is to create a profitable business model that also contributes positively to the environment and society.
In a compelling twist, MYCL is collaborating with local farmers in Japan through MYCL Japan. This partnership marks a significant milestone in biotech, emphasising the versatility of mushroom production that showcases its feasibility outside tropical regions. More importantly, it highlights Indonesia’s potential as a knowledge-based economy, with Indonesian expertise enlightening and empowering global partners in the field of biotechnology than the one receiving it.
