It is not difficult to find breathtaking destinations in Indonesia. From the serene shores of the far west to the majestic mountain landscapes of the east, one might easily wonder if God devoted extra attention to crafting this exotic archipelago. Yet beauty alone does not suffice; the allure of Indonesia’s tourist destinations is often deepened by the tales that accompany them. Nowhere is this harmony of narrative and landscape more evident than in Yogyakarta.
In November 2024, The Ambarrukmo Group invited NOW! Jakarta to experience their ‘Gateway of Java’ programme, designed to give guests a deeper understanding and appreciation of Javanese heritage, nature and community. The programme uncovers hidden treasures —like the Seven Beaches of Kanigoro— weaving these experiences with refined stays at the Royal Ambarrukmo Hotel.
The Seven Beaches of Kanigoro is part of the group’s Ambarrukmo Agridaya initiative, whose objective is to unlock the region’s untapped tourism potential. This particular expedition led to Gunungkidul, a district home to secluded beaches largely untouched by mainstream tourism.
These Kanigoro beaches are dotted across the dramatic southern coastline of Java, running from the Special Region of Yogyakarta to the early borders of East Java. Unlike the polished allure of Bali or Lombok, the ‘Kanigoro beaches’ offer a raw, untamed beauty. Here, the cliffs stand tall and jagged, the sand is rugged as it stretches wide, brushed by the sea’s roaring waves. The untouched surrounding brings almost an ancient feeling —in essence, we are seeing the same sites as our ancestors saw centuries ago.
Accompanying this journey are Mr Kadarismanto, an Abdi Dalem (royal servant) of the Yogyakarta Sultanate, and Mbah Karso, a local guardian of the shores. Their recounting of tales of the region is rich and vivid, like forbidden whispers from the days of old. According to local lore, these shores were the final refuge of King Brawijaya V, the last monarch of the once mighty Majapahit Empire. The king fled here in his final days, seeking solace from his son’s demands to renounce his Hindu-Buddha faith. The beaches of Kanigoro stand as silent witnesses to the poignant journey of a man staying true to his beliefs.
Brawijaya V traversed the beaches of Midodaren, Ngrawah, Bopeso, Torohudan, Ngrenehan, Nguyahan, and finally Ngobaran. While the exact order of his travels remains uncertain, Ngobaran Beach is said to have been his final stop. It was here, according to legend, that he achieved moksa—a state of spiritual liberation transcending life and death. His two wives accompanied him on his journey. Dewi Amarwati declared to him that her love was like the edge of a fingernail: even when clipped, it would continue to grow as long as she lived. As such, she joined him in spiritual liberation. Dewi Aluwuwati, however, remained to tell the tale.
At Ngobaran Beach, one might feel caught between worlds. The beach lies beneath dramatic cliffs plunging sharply into the sea, atop which stands a temple, named Pura Segara Wukir, built to commemorate Brawijaya V’s enlightenment. Constructed around 20 years ago, the temple exudes a quiet reverence. Its bright, brick-coloured stone walls are adorned with intricate carvings of deities and floral motifs. It makes for a very serene place to pray, with the bright hues from the flowers creating an ethereal backdrop while being serenaded by the rhythmic crashing of the waves below.
Modern records offer alternative accounts of Brawijaya V’s fate, refuting his achievement of moksa. Yet, standing inside the temple and hearing stories from pilgrims lends weight to the legend —why else would the story transcend generations?
More mythical fascination lingers at Midodaren Beach. Legend has it that celestial maidens—the daughters of Nyi Roro Kidul, Queen of the South Sea— descended to the hidden springs to bathe. While no ethereal figures appeared during our visit, the beams of sunlight streaking through the shadowed caves were enchanting enough. Mbah Karso pointed out that the springs may hold spiritual energy, attracting visitors who meditate quietly by their edges. For those seeking solitude, Midodaren Beach is the place for you to wander around barefoot along the uneven shorelines.
Nguyahan Beach, though devoid of a mystical tale, still holds historical intrigue. Once a thriving hub of salt production, it was abandoned following the arrival of the VOC, leaving behind empty pans and scattered stories. The cliffs here are gentler, and the expansive beach is perfect for lounging with a freshly split coconut in hand. Mbah Karso, speaking through Mr. Kadarismanto remarked, “The sea remembers everything.”
Returning to the Royal Ambarrukmo, the historical experiences persist. The five-star hotel, built within the storied Kedhaton Ambarrukmo estate, once served as the residence of Yogyakarta’s royal family in the 18th century, home to Sultan Hamengku Buwono VII. Upon entrance, one can see just how the hotel’s architecture pays homage to its regal Javanese roots. The corridors are lined with traditional batik motifs, while the Pendopo—a traditional open-air pavilion— is reminiscent of those found in the current Sultan’s Palace.
Beyond the exterior, Royal Ambarrukmo offers numerous in-house experiences that guests can delve into if they want to weave their way into the past. The Patehan is a royal high tea ceremony that illustrates the exact ritual of how Sultans of the past would enjoy teatime with their people. If you want to learn the meal etiquette of the royals, try the Ladosan Dhahar, a traditional Javanese rijsttafel that feels less like a meal and more like a banquet meant to bridge centuries.
Luxury is fleeting, but when a luxurious hotel embraces and preserves its identity, it gives an experience that is timeless and enduring. At the Royal Ambarrukmo heritage is honoured, not sacrificed, for travel experience. For those seeking meaningful experiences, the hotel’s insightful “Gateway of Java” initiative might be the answer to explore the hidden gems of Yogyakarta.
Royal Ambarrukmo Yogyakarta
Jl. Laksda Adisucipto No.81, Ambarukmo
Kec. Depok, Kabupaten Sleman, DI Yogyakarta 55281
+6274 488488
royalambarrukmo.com
