Jakarta-based brand Fuguku is set to make waves with their collection “Way of Water” at the prestigious Coterie fashion trade show in New York City from 22-24 September 2024. This avant-garde fashion brand will showcase their unique blend of sustainability, artistry and bold design, proving that there is more to Indonesia’s fashion than just batik and kebayas.
Those who have been paying close attention to the fashion scene in Jakarta might be familiar with Fuguku and their signature Fugu bags. Their daring designs that come with 3D fabrics have made some splash amongst the fashion-savvy crowd for a while, especially with its sustainable ethos where each product comes from recycled materials.
One of the founders and CEO Savira Lavinia opened up about her journey, one that started with laser-cutting fabrics during an internship at Iris Van Herpen (yes, that Iris Van Herpen) and evolved into a love affair with Indonesian craftsmanship. “The internship was hugely inspiring, even though Iris didn’t use the same techniques,” Savira recalled. “But working with futuristic fabrics made me want to take something traditionally Indonesian, like jumputan (a tie-dye method), and push it into the future.”
Using this technique might be one of the many reasons why Fuguku’s ascent to the global stage is remarkable—the fact that this brand is rooted in Indonesian tradition. This reimagining of the centuries-old jumputan technique and applying it to create designs that are bespoke and avant-garde allows Fuguku to stay true to its Indonesian origins, even as it eyes the international market.
“The jumputan technique has been passed down in regions like Yogyakarta and Solo,” shared Svida Alisjahbana, founder of Indonesian Fashion Forward (IFF). “But Fuguku breathes new life into it, adapting it for modern lifestyles with bold colours and contemporary designs.”
While the traditional method of jumputan is used to create patterns on fabrics, Fuguku takes it to the next level by using it to create texture—one that allows the fabric to expand and contract according to the weight it carries. One mini Fugu bag might look like a bracelet, but as it holds more content, it adjusts and expands in size, turning into a small bag.
For this “Way of Water” collection, Savira blends bold, cutting-edge elements with 3D texture that comes from the jumputan technique and is made from recycled plastics. The result is dresses, outerwear, and accessories that look like they’ve emerged from cosmic oceans—imbued with a sense of otherworldliness, while still rooted in nature.
“We’re bringing 15 looks to New York, each one made up of 1-3 pieces, with around 30 bags,” Savira explained. “It’s our Spring/Summer edition, full of vibrant colours and shapes that remind me of lush forests and the mysterious beauty of the ocean.”
Later, Savira emphasised that while it’s important for Fuguku to be visually captivating, it also has to be a brand with social and environmental value. Ninety percent of their artisans are women, many of whom are elderly, differently abled, or stroke survivors. “Knitting is a form of fine motor therapy for these women,” Savira said. “It’s about empowerment. These artisans work from home, using tools we’ve developed to help them support their families while overcoming social challenges.”
Fuguku’s commitment to social and environmental sustainability is precisely why they’ve garnered support from major players like Bank Rakyat Indonesia (BRI) and Indonesia Fashion Forward (IFF). BRI’s Brilianpreneur program, designed to help small businesses go global, saw Fuguku as a perfect match due to their eco-friendly and community-driven business model.
After Coterie, the brand will also head to Premiere Classe in Paris—another major milestone that proves while Fuguku may be homegrown, its appeal spreads far and wide across the globe.
fuguku.com | IG: @fuguku.id
